The raised drive-side chainstay, which allows for a short (420 millimeter) back end that both fits the big wheels and makes the bike snap forward when you stomp on it, looks classy here compared with some other brands’ gawky renditions. Trek kept the geometry from last year’s alloy Stache and upgraded to carbon. The Stache, with its big wheels, is a dirt-gripping, rock-shredding, fast-rolling hardtail machine with few peers. Historically, the drawbacks have been extra weight, additional rolling resistance, and a lack of maneuverability, though Trek has largely eliminated these issues through smart design and materials. The tires also have the largest contact patch of anything short of a full fatty. Thanks to all that circumference, the wheels roll over objects with ease. Though there’s variance depending on brands and specs, these tires measure an inch or more taller than even the burliest 29er setup, some two inches taller than most 27.5+ setups, and 2.5 inches taller than normal 27.5 setups. In case you’re still stymied by the nomenclature, 29+ puts three-inch-wide tires on 29-inch rims. And after another half-year on the upgrade, it’s clear that the Stache stacks up to many full-suspension rides as well. I stand by my prediction that this bike will eventually make standard hardtails obsolete. It’s a hardtail for the big-hit, high-speed, no-limits crew. The Verdict: Anyone who complains that 29+ is too big and unwieldy has never ridden the Stache 9.8. And while the drivetrain is fine for what it is, a 1×12 with a 50-tooth granny would make it even better. What We Don’t: The low-profile Chupacabra tires roll fast but don’t have enough bite to keep up with the bike. But now Trek has gone to a carbon frame and wheels and lopped off almost 2.5 pounds. The bike is mine since June 2018 and has less than 1000km on it, more like 800 or so.What We Like: The only complaint we had with last year’s alloy Stache 9 was its weight. This makes that the pawls cannot engage like it should and if the hub must freewheel, the pawls don't glide equally over the teeth of the hub. Inside the hub, there is one tooth that has some misforming / burr. I opened the body myself and could pinpoint the issue pretty easy. Weird noise is still there but the technician tells me it is normal. LBS changed the ring and pawls and told me all is good now. Since that moment, the hub made a weird noise, an extra click that sounded not so normal. This due the body that skipped a hole lot of teeth. They once opened the body but nothing wrong with it.Ģ weeks ago, I almost hit the ground right in front of a car. Told my LBS but he said that it would be me shifting wrong gears and stuff. Hi, jumping on this thread because of issues with my Fuel EX 8 plus 2018 rear hub.Īfter a few weeks after buying my bike I noticed that the body pretty often but random skips one or some more teeth. Most lower end Trek's I've worked on used cup'n'cone setups Also, cup'n'cone setups require much more frequent service to keep the adjusted properly. If it's a cup'n'cone hub, where the hub itself is the cage for the bearings, then it should be pulled down, checked for good amounts of grease and properly adjustedd as they are notorious for coming with a lack of grease and proper adjustment from the factories. These hubs still usually have some form of pre-load system for the bearings to keep them from having play in the hub shell, some come with angular contact bearings which absolutely require pre-load to function properly and not have play and if not adjusted properly the bearings will be destroyed in short order and the hub will develop play. If it's a hub that uses pressed in sealed bearings, there should be absolutely no play. No actual clue on those bikes and hubs, but Trek and other big brands are notorious for specing $hit, cheap ass hubs, headsets and the like to cut cost and ad weight.
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